Pvc p trap installation

And the pipe that goes off horizontal above that is the vent because there is none inside the wall? I want to solve without cutting up vanity too much. Seen all kinds of discussions as to whether S trap is ok, etc. I was thinking of raising the p trap so that its bottom is inside the cabinet and connecting down to the wall outlet with two 90 degree elbows. Is that going to work, or is it the same as an S trap, with the same possible smell and venting problems?

If I understand you correctly I suspect it would still amount to an S-trap. My son and I remodeled his kitchen and have now run into a plumbing problem under his sink. The drain is unusually high which makes the installed P-trap high, too. The new basin sink is fairly deep and, to make matters worse, he has a dishwasher discharge connection on his tailpiece. What other options could you recommend?

Thanks in advance! Really appreciate all the info you have to share. I am trying to raise it up a bit and came up with this configuration. Is this the only thing wrong with my set up? Help, I have the following configuration and the smell coming from the drain is bad. I have checked and the trap is not drying out.

If I take the p trap drain off I do notice that there is a slight buildup in the cap. Did I set something up wrong. The pipe going right is for the double sink and the pipe in the back upper right is the vent pipe coming from the basement.

What is the Tee abvoe the drain in the vent and where does the vent go to the right? The vent from the right comes up from the basement where there is a bathroom. It goes into the wall and vents to the roof. Slope is correct. Triple checked it and even increased the slope slightly when I first noticed the odor. The smell is gone.

I did 3 things. I lengthened the pipe from the first tee to trap, I replaced the trap with the cleanout to one without, and lengthened the trap arm a couple inches. It has been a few weeks and the smell has not come back. Thank you for your suggestions. Can p-traps be stacked? If there is one on the second floor and another inline in the basement do they cancel out each other? Is this a problem? I have a similar issue in a new kitchen remodel. Is this acceptable? What are the alternative drain configurations I can suggest?

Your email address will not be published. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Automated page speed optimizations for fast site performance. File off the burrs from the cut around the inner edge of the piece with a flat file.

Slide a slip nut onto the end of the inlet piece that was cut, with the threads facing the end of the piece. Slide a nylon ring washer onto the end of the piece with the thick rim facing the nut. Insert the end of the inlet piece into the drain pipe at the wall, and thread the nut onto the end of the pipe temporarily by hand. Slide a slip nut onto the lower end of the drainpipe at the bottom of the sink bowl. Slide a nylon ring washer onto the pipe with the thick rim facing the nut.

Fit the long side of the p-trap onto the lower end of the sink's drainpipe. Slide the nut and washer down, and thread the nut onto the upper end of the p-trap. Align the short side of the p-trap with the nut at the degree and of the inlet piece. Thread the nut onto the p-trap by hand. Tighten all nuts securely by hand. To install it, slip the tailpiece washer into the flared end of the pipe and attach it to the sink strainer with the slip nut. Fasten the nut by hand as tightly as possible.

If your kitchen has a double sink, know that a P-trap can service both of them. In this case, you must install a sanitary tee on the tailpieces to connect them to the same trap. Bathroom sink drains generally start as tailpieces. Depending on the position of the wall stub, the sink tailpiece may reach the P-trap without additional extensions. If you need an additional length, install a tailpiece, then cut it to dimension with a hacksaw.

A P-trap consists of a vertical length of U-bend that connects to the tailpiece and a horizontal length of pipe called a P-trap arm. The trap arm is connected to the U-bend with a slip nut that you can unfasten. For an easy installation of the P-trap, remove the arm from the U-bend, then connect the bend to the tailpiece that drops down from the sink drain.

You can now connect the trap arm to the wall drain. Slip a washer on the trap arm and push the arm into the PVC or metal wall drain stub out. If the trap arm is too long, measure the correct length and cut the excess pipe with a hacksaw. Thread on the slip nut and tighten it by hand.

Align the U-bend with the trap arm you just connected to the stub out — you may have to slightly turn the bend left or right to achieve a proper alignment. When in position, thread the slip nut on the trap arm and tighten it by hand.