Canon 60d iso

That was the reason for looking better than , that it was actually , cut by a third in software, and why looked worse than , because it was pushed in software. There is no "native" ISO. Your camera sensor is at root an analog device. When you adjust ISO, you're actually adjusting the electrical amplification, or "gain. The higher the gain, the fewer captured electrons are needed to register a a digital unit.

This amplification does not improve your image, any more than turning your stereo up improves the quality of the original recording. Double your ISO, and you tell your camera "capture half as much light, but treat the darker image as if it were twice as bright. Unlike film, digital camera ISO is largely an illusion, since it doesn't affect how the sensor captures photons at all. ISO just adjusts how many photons you capture, and how the camera amplifies the result.

High ISO images are noisier mainly because you captured a lot less light, and the random component of the light is a bigger fraction of what you captured. Poor testing methodology. You're not going to see any such claim from a reputable review site such as DPReview doing a scientific test with RAW images.

You might get a reduction in JPEG images due to in-camera noise reduction, at a cost of a softer image. If you compare the RAW images of a test target, and use software to measure noise rather than eyeballing it and guessing which image has less noise, you're never going to see such a result. It's like suggesting that water runs uphill, some of the time. Noise has three components: shot noise, which is variance in the incoming photons, read noise, and thermal noise.

Thermal noise is unimportant for photographs of a few seconds or less. Read noise is relatively constant, though it does tend to go down slightly at high gain. In any case, it's quite small on modern cameras.

Shot noise varies with the square root of the number of photons captured, and it's much larger than the other two for conventional photography. The main problem is that ISO carries with it the idea that the camera is somehow more "sensitive" at high ISO, which it isn't. The sensor doesn't change at all, just how the camera interprets the photons it captured. Sensors don't have ISOs. Sensors are charge-collecting devices; the only thing you can say, ISO-wise, is that there is a lowest ISO possible, given a chosen amount of highlight headroom.

This was true of the older 1-series cameras; I don't know if the newer ones are different. By all reasonable logic, if you're going to have an ISO pulled from , then you should have an ISO 80 pulled from , too, but Canon is neither reasonable nor logical.

Keep in mind that these issues are not generic to digital cameras; just to Canon's DSLR quirks and technological defects. Canon really needs to have finer control of analog gain only because their DSLRs and a few Nikon-made sensors, too add considerable amount of noise after the gain stage, so the more gain used, the more the signal "gains" on the post-gain noise, like yelling in a noisy factory to be heard. By , , the noise floor is in a range where it is almost completely proportional to ISO.

If there is a fixed-level hiss in your power amp, though, the ration of sound to hiss increases when you increase the volume, and that is exactly analogous to Canon's outdated sensor technology.

Canon DSLRs add significant noise including banding. With Sony sensors, this would only be about 1. You've been looking at other cameras. I'm very surprised by that. There's no good reason to do it that way; the sensors have no issue with arbitrary gains, and where I've dealt with astrophotography cameras that let you set gain directly, there's been far more flexibility than this.

The online articles I've read have not touched on this issue, probably because it didn't seem important compared to measuring sensor characteristics at the standard ISO settings. You're preoccupied with an unimportant component of noise, at least for most terrestrial images. Since "X electrons of noise" is the standard deviation of a random variable, the two don't add linearly. Rather, they add as the square root of the sum of the squares. How does the Canon 60D compare with it predecessor and competing models?

See the following table which compares at the default Noise Reduction setting. As you can see from the above crops, the Nikon D comes out slightly ahead at higher ISOs, especially when dealing with low-contrast reds, but 60D competes surprisingly well, and is a noticeable improvement over the 50D despite having more and therefore smaller pxiels.

The Pentax K-7 is clearly outclassed by the others. As you can see, very similar performance here compared to the Canon T2i, which is no surprise since they all share very similar if not identical sensors and processors. The Canon 7D is a bit noisier, perhaps due to the wider 8 channels vs 4 and faster read circuitry required to reach its 8 fps burst speed.

Low Pass Filter. Dust Deletion Feature. Self Cleaning Sensor Unit 2. Dust Delete Data appended to the captured image 3. Manual cleaning of sensor. Recording System. Recording Format. File Size. RAW: Approx. M-RAW: Approx. S-RAW: Approx. Backup Recording. File Numbering. Color Space. Picture Style. White Balance. Auto White Balance. Color Temperature Compensation. Color Temperature Information Transmission.

Eye Point. Dioptric Adjustment Correction. Focusing Screen. Quick-return half mirror transmission: reflection ratio of Viewfinder Information.

Depth Of Field Preview. AF Points. AF Working Range. Focusing Modes. AF Point Selection. Selected AF Point Display. AF Assist Beam. Small series of flashes fired by built-in flash Effective range: Approx. Exposure Control. Metering Modes. Metering Range. Exposure Control Systems. ISO Speed Range. If overexposure would occur with fill flash, ISO will be the lowest set.

Exposure Compensation. AE Lock. AE lock is updated each time you press the button. Enabled in all metering modes. Vertical-travel, mechanical, focal-plane shutter with all speeds electronically-controlled. Shutter Speeds. Available range varies by shooting mode.

Shutter Release. Self Timer. Remote Control. Built in Flash. Auto pop-up, retractable, built-in flash in the pentaprism. Flash Metering System. Guide Number. Recycling Time. Flash Ready Indicator. Flash Coverage. Up to 17mm focal length equivalent to approx. FE Lock. Flash Exposure Compensation.

External Speedlite. Zooming to Match Focal Length. Flash Metering. External Flash Settings. PC Terminal. Drive System. Drive Modes. Single, high-speed continuous, low-speed continuous, sec. Continuous Shooting Speed. High-speed: Max. Low-speed: Max. Maximum Burst. The number of possible shots and maximum burst apply to a 4GB SD card based on Canon's testing standards.

The image file size, number of possible shots, and maximum burst will vary depending on the shooting conditions aspect ratio , subject, memory card brand, ISO speed, Picture Style, etc.

The F after the number indicates that continuous shooting is possible until the card becomes full. Live View Functions. Shooting Modes.

Autofocus One-Shot AF 1. Live mode - One-point, contrast AF. Switching to another AF point possible. Face selectable. Remember that high ISO isn't just a question of acceptable noise levels. It's also a question of loss of dynamic range, i. Heya, Best thing to do, is to go look at a scene. Setup on a tripod. Take exposures at different ISO settings. Look at each major stop. See where your tolerable threshold is for your own eyes. That's your auto-ISO ceiling. Auto-ISO will hit that ceiling pretty often, because if you're under-exposed in manual mode, it will max ISO immediately and then stop, and may still be under-exposed.

There's nothing wrong with using manual mode and auto-ISO. I do this all the time. I just do it with the understanding that if I don't check it, I might be under-exposed for all my shots which is a terrible, terrible thing, so I check after every other shot or so to see where my ISO is landing to make sure I'm not just sitting at the ceiling of it. I actually only use auto-ISO in manual myself, when doing birds, where I've set a shutter speed and an aperture specific to the light of the area, and I use auto-ISO with a cap of for me to help take care of the stuff in the middle if lighting changes a little bit clouds, etc.

That's just my use. Again, try to do a few exposures with high ISO yourself. See what you consider tolerable noise from high ISO. Maybe look into noise reduction software to see just how much you can go to before you hit a threshold.

Don't rely on someone else's numbers, when you can test it yourself. Plus it's a good learning experience for you. Very best, My Flickr :: My Astrobin. How do you apply the NR selectively?

Through mask? Never done this before!